PAITHANI SAREE

PAITHANI SAREE

Paithani is a variety of sari, manufactured in the Paithan region of Maharashtra. Paithani saris are handmade, from the finest quality of silk, and are considered to be one of the richest saris in the state.

The Paithani saree is known the world over for its uniqueness. It is one of the most beautiful sarees in the world. Beautifully crafted, with an exquisite zari border, this saree is truly a poem in silk. The Paithani saree is chosen by brides to wear on their special day, especially in Gujarati and Maharashtrian families.

 

HISTORY OF PAITHANI SAREE

The art of weaving Paithani flourished in 200B.C., during Satvahana era. It is mentioned in the fourteenth Edict of Asoka and was the capital of eminent Andhra King in the first century A.D. During the first two decades the last century the weavers worked with threads of pure gold and silver, drawing their inspiration for color and design solely from the frescoes of Ajanta practiced exclusively by a certain section of the people of paithan for the past 600 years.

Also, the Rig Veda mentions a golden woven fabric and the Greek records talk of gorgeous Paithani fabrics from the great ancient trading and industrial centres, Pratishan or Paithan in Maharashtra. In old times, the zari used in making Paithanis was drawn from pure gold. But today silver is substituted for gold thus making the Paithanis more affordable to many people.

Even the Peshwas in the 18th century had a special love for paithani textiles and it is believed that Madhavrao Peshwa even asked for the supply of asavali dupattas in red, green, saffron, pomegranate and pink colours.

Described in early literature as Maharashtra, “the great fabric, a cloth is being woven since thousands of years from a very ancient and popular city known as Supratishthapuram, a silken cloth brocaded with golden threads, is what we call today the Paithani. The city is today known as paithan, giving fabric its modern name.

The fabric woven in traditional ways even after many centuries, is renowned as “the great fabric” not only for Maharashtra but also from India. Even in today’s advanced world the methods of weaving Paithani have not changed at all, the reason why its not lessened by a whisker. Woven with extremely dedicate silk threaded sticks, the Paithani is one fabric, which cannot be matched by any other cloth today that is why it is enchanting legacy from Maharashtra and fabric of beautifully women.

MOTIFS AND COLOUR

Since the Patithan region is quite close to the Ajanta caves, one can find the influence of the Buddhist paintings in the motifs used on the Paithani sarees. For the body of the sari, some very common motifs are Kamal or lotus flower, Hans, Ashraffi, Asawalli (flowering vines), Bangadi Mor (peacock), Tota-Maina (male & female parrot), Humarparinda (peasant bird), Amar Vell and Narali. One can also see motifs like Circles, Stars, Kuyri, Kalas Pakhhli, Chandrakor, Leaves Cluster, etc.

For the pallu, the common motifs are Muniya (a kind of parrot), Panja (geometrical flower-like motif), Barwa (12 strands of a ladder), Laher, Muthada (geometrical design), Asawali (flower pot) and Mor. The colors usually used for making a Pathani saree are yellow, red, lavender, purple, sky blue, magenta, peach pink, purple, pearl pink, peacock blue/green, yellowish green, violet red, black and white, black and red, red and green, etc.

CLASSIFICATION OF PAITHANI SAREES

There are different types of Paithani saris, classified on the basis of three criteria – motif, weaving and color.

Classification by Motif

• Bangadi Mor (Peacock in a bangle or in a bangle shape, woven in pallu)

• Munia brocade (Parrots woven on the pallu as well as in border)

• Lotus brocade (Lotus motifs used in pallu and maybe border)

Classification by Weaving

• Kadiyal border sari (Warp and weft of the border are of the same color, body has different colors for warp and weft)

• Kad/Ekdhoti (Single shuttle used for weaving of weft and colors of warp yarn different from that of weft yarn)

Classification by Color

• Kalichandrakala (Black sari with red border)

• Raghu (Parrot green sari)

• Shirodak (Pure white sari)

FABRIC

The Paithani sarees, are made of silk in rich, vivid colours with gold embroidery. In the modern Paithani sarees, silver threads coated with gold are used instead of pure gold threads.

METHOD OF PRODUCTION

Making a saree is a long process; it takes a long time completing a piece. And it also needs lots of hard work and expertise to make this fine fabric. A heavily brocaded Paithani sari will take anywhere from six months to one and a half years to get fully ready. Infact, even a plain and simple sari takes atleast one month for being completed. Before weaving the sari the raw silk is cleaned with caustic soda. Then it is dyed into the different colours as required. Sik threads are then separated by the women and then they are ready to be woven.

The whole process of making Paithani sarees involve following steps:

Dyeing

• The kali/vakhar is brought from Bangalore which is a bundle of silk threads ultimately known as one thok.

• The raw material is dipped in hot water and diluted in khar (salt), for about 15 mins.

• The material is then squeezed by putting a rod in between the kali to remove the excess of impurities and again dipped in cold water for about 2-3 times.

• The dye bath is prepared in which the proportion varies according to the hues and shapes

• The kali is dipped in the dye bath, removed, and dried completely. This is repeated 2 to 3 times.

• It is then washed in cold water to make it much smoother and lustrous.

• After the dyeing process is completed, the silk threads are wounded upon the Asari with a very smooth touch which is done by the women. A Rahat was also used for wounding but since it was very much time consuming. They started using the machines made up of the cycle wheel which is less time consuming.

• From the asari, the silk threads are transferred on a kandi.

• The silk threads are finally set onto the loom. <.li>

Loom

It took approximately 1 day to set the silk threads on the loom. “Tansal” is used to put the “wagi”. The “pavda” works like the paddle to speed up the weaving. The “jhatka” is used to push the “kandi” from one side to the other. “Pushthe” is used in designing the border of Paithani in which it is punched according to design application. “Pagey” are tied to the loom. The threads are then passed through “fani”.

There are two types of motion:

Primary motions:

• Shedding -dividing the warp sheet or shed into two layers, one above the other for the passage of shuttle with the weft threads.

• Picking -passing a pick of weft from one selvedge of a cloth through the warp threads.

• Beating -dividing the last pick through the fell of cloth with the help of slay fixed on the reel.

Secondary motions:

• Take up motion -taking up the cloth when being woven and winding it on the roller.

• Let off motion -letting the warp wound on a warp beam, when the cloth is taken up on the cloth roller beam. Taking up and letting off the warp are done simultaneously.

Weaving

Paithani saris are silks in which there is no extra weft forming figures. The figuring weave was obtained by a plain tapestry technique. There are three techniques of weaving;

• Split tapestry weave -The simplest weave where two weft threads are woven up to adjacent warp threads and then reversed. The warp threads are then cut and retied to a different colour.

• Interlocking method -two wefts are interlocked with each other where the colour change is required. The figuring weft is made of a number of coloured threads, weaving plain with warp threads and interlocked on either side with the grounds weft threads are invariably gold threads which interlock with the figure weft threads, thus forming the figure. This system of interlocking weaves, known as kadiyal, is done so that there are no extra floats on the back of the motif thus making the design nearly reversible.

• Dobe-tailing method -two threads go around the same warp, one above the other, creating a dobe-tailing or tooth-comb effect.

Weaving could take between 18 to 24 months, depending upon the complexity of the design. Today there are many weavers who are working for the revival of this treasured weave.

UNIQUENESS

The speciality of the paithani is its border and pallav. Earlier just 2-3 colours were popular which were integrated in the sari in the dhup chaon pattern which, when translated, means light and shade. The paithani sari is an entirely handwoven item. Depending on the intricacy of the design, it takes anything from one month to a year to weave. The traditional paithani used to be a plain sari with a heavy zari border and ornamental pallav. “But today paithanis with motifs are in vogue: stars, circles, peacocks, flowers and paisleys. The paithani borders and pallavs are heavily adorned with these motifs and the sari is given the name after the design on it. Tota-maina (parrot), bangdi-mor (peacock with round design), asavali (flower and vine), narli (coconut), are all descriptive.

 

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MANGALAGIRI SAREES

MANGALAGIRI SAREE

Mangalagiri in Guntur District of Andhra Pradesh is famous for its special variety of saree, called Mangalagiri Saree. This saree, featuring tribal designs, is very much in demand in the fashion market. Mangalagiri sarees, woven from cotton, feature borders with closely-knit patterns embroidered with ‘zari’ (gold-colored thread). Usually these patterns are minute checks or small simple frames. The ‘pallu’ (falling edge of saree) is embellished with stripes, a typical tribal style, created with gold-colored embroidery. These sarees come in a variety of rich colors.

HISTORY OF MANGALAGIRI SAREE

Mangalagiri was always known as a pilgrim centre. There is a famed and elegant temple on a hillock in the heart of Manglagiri town dedicated to Lord Panakala Narasimha Swamy. Here, jaggery water has been offered to the lord by the devotees for several centuries. It is said in the scriptures that, the lord is being worshipped since Satya Yuga (The first of the four yugas). Below at ground level there is another temple dedicated to Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy. It is said that, Yudhishtira (Dharmaraju, the eldest of the Pandavas) installed the main deity in this temple. The temple has a very tall tower with beautiful sculpture which has 11 stairs. It was constructed by Raja Vasireddi Venkatadri Naidu, during the years 1807-09.

Local legends speak of a millennium old tradition in this region. It is said that pilgrims were expected to offer their respects to Lord Panakala Narashimha on the hill top, and then buy a saree from a local weaver before leaving the place. This clearly emphasized the patronage and impetus given to the weaving industry even as part of the tradition.

Besides, as per incormation available in South Indian Inscriptions Volume IV (published by Archaelogical Survey of India) in pages 231 to 233, t here is a clear r e ference to a Pillar inscription in the Main Bazaar street of Mangalagiri Township called the shasana Sthambam. This pillar inscription is numbered as No.711 and 711-A.

According to the inscriptions on this pillar, the muslim rulers belong to the Kutub Shahi dynasty are said to have raised the taxes on Handloom textiles during the year 1593. As t he weavers were not in a position to meet such huge taxes they left this village and migrated to other Handloom centres of the State. Thus the weaving activity in this area suffered a severe blow. Subsequently the rulers of this region pursued a more sympathetic approach towards the weavers and thus reduced the Taxes. This pillar was supposed to represent the positive attitude towards the weavers after their period of sorrow. This historical information substantiates the claim that Mangalagiri indeed had a strong weaving tradition for over 500 years.

The main occupation in the town of Mangalagiri is Hand-loom weaving. Nearly 50% of the population dependent on this cottage industry only. Because of the Hand-loom dress material produced in the town, Mangalagiri is placed in the world map.

CHARACTERISTIC AND UNIQUENESS

Mangalagiri cotton is characterized by:

  • pure durable cotton material
  • No weave designs on body of the fabric
  • Nizam border, which is peculiar only to Mangalagiri region
  • Material woven only on pit-loom
  • Only produced in Mangalagiri region
  • No gaps on the weave in the edge of the material which is again peculiar to this kind of fabric

METHOD OF PRODUCTION

PURIFICATION OF COTTON:

The cotton yarn which is brought from t he mills are in Hank form is creaming in colour and contain several impurities like oils, wax, cotton seeds, etc. This makes the yarn unsuitable for dyeing as the dye would not percolate into the fibres due to the wax content. So the yarn is boiled in hot water with caustic soda and soap for about 3 to 4 hours to ensure that the stickiness on the fibres slowly gives way.

After boiling, the yarn is left to soak in the same liquid overnight. The next morning, the yarn is thoroughly rinsed and the excess water is squeezed out. Once excess water is wrung out, the yarn is ready for dyeing as the yarn now has the capacity to absorb the dyes.

DYEING:

This is a very important step in Mangalagiri textile production. For white sarees, the yarn is bleached using either (a).bleaching powder or (b). bleaching solution.

The chemical name of the bleach used is Calcium Hypochlorite. A minimum of 7 gms of Chlorine to a litre of water is a minimum requirement. The yarn is soaked in this solution for about 30 to 45 minutes at room temperature and then washed, wrung out and suspended on bamboo sticks for drying.

In the case of colours, the yarn is soaked in dyes.Handloom industries generally use two kinds of dyes-Vat and Naphthol dyes. Both of these are chemical dyes. In both cases various colours are mixed to get different hues and shades of colours. Of these 90% of Mangalagiri textiles use Vat dyes.

REMOVAL OF EXCESS DYE:

The yarn that is dyed or bleached is then soaked in water in boiling temperature with soap solution and soda ash for about 15 minutes to ensure that all molecules of excess dye lying on the surface of the yarn come out. Since a mere wash does not ensure the removal of excess dye, the soda ash and soap are added.

DRYING:

The yarn thus dyed, is then dried out in the open on stands created for the purpose. Certain light sensitive colours are dried in the shade. It is also a practice for dyeing specialists to dye yarns of particular colours , in which case, only certain colours are mixed on certain days. This was uniformity could be maintained in shades. Weighing scales are used to measure the dye powder which is used to mix in water.

PRE-LOOM PROCESS:

Winding of hank yarn into warp and weft

The hank is then transferred through a “charka” and shift bamboo into a bobbin and is now called the warp. The weft is made by winding the hank yarn into a Pirn. The weft is then inserted into a shuttle.

Next, the warp from the bobbin is rolled out into a warp machine which is a big circular contraption, with bamboo sticks. By a rotating process, the yarn is rolled out of several bobbins into the warp machine. Now the hank yarn is in the form of a warp.

Street sizing-

Next the warp is mounted on bamboo sticks and is extended to its full length. Then it is sprayed with rice conjee to reinforce the fibres and make it amenable for weaving. This is done for about 45 minutes, and depending upon the time of the day and weather conditions, the fibres are left to dry.

Weaving process

After street sizing, the warp is ready for weaving. It is mounted on a beam, and the weft which is in the Pirn is placed inside a shuttle and placed perpendicular to the warp beam. For every pull of the lever, the weft moves across the warp once thus adding to a weave.

This was the traditional method of weaving the warp and weft. However nowadays, the jacquard is used and cards with punched holes are inserted and placed appropriately to affect the required designs on the cloth.

One warp can make about 4 sarees

1warp = 12 hanks

1 weft = 10 hanks

Zari is wound in small bobbins and is used only for the border. Since Mangalagiri sarees do not have any woven designs on the body, the Zari is used only for the border. It is very significant to note that Mangalagiri cotton textiles are woven only on Pitlooms.

A pit is dug on the ground, and the weaver sits with his feet planted in a pit below the ground level. The loom is placed on the ground so that much force could be applied with balance while the weaving process takes place. Many other kinds of weaving involve pedal loom, or stand loom wherein, the loom is mounted above. In this case the weaver is able to force himself a little more to be able to weave the characteristic Nizam border into the weave. Admittedly, this border which is created without a gap in the edge of the textile requires much skill and manual capacity. These elements characterize Mangalagiri textile weaving, as being different from other kinds of weaves.

Cutting & folding:

The woven yarn cloth is then cut according to the requirement of the goods which is to be made into. Then the cloth is folded and sent for inspection to the master weavers.

JAMDANI SAREE

JAMDANI SAREES

The Jamdani style of cotton weaving belongs exclusively to Bengal. The elaborate and intricate designs of Bengal’s Jamdani have caught the attention of fashion lovers around the country and world. Once produced for the royal and noble family members, the Jamdani style of Bengal is basically cotton garments embroidered with gold and silver thread. The fabric is apparently lace like with subtle dreamy designs.

HISTORY

Word ‘Jamdani’ – derived from a “PERSION” word ‘JAM’ meaning a ‘cup’ and ‘DANI’ denotes the ‘container’. The origin of the word Jamdani is uncertain. According to a popular version, it came from the Persian words jama (cloth) and dana (diapering). In other words Jamdani basically denotes diapered cloth. Another version holds that in Persian the word jam meaning flower and dani a vase or container.

The earliest mention of Jamdani and its development as an industry is to be found in Kautilya’s Arthashashtra (book of economics) wherein it is stated that this fine cloth used to be made in Bengal and Pundra (parts of modern Bangladesh). Jamdani is also mentioned in the book of Periplus of the Eritrean Sea and in the accounts of Arab, Chinese and Italian travelers and traders.

The “Mughals” recognized this excellence, acknowledged its rarity. During the region of Emperor Jahangir and Aurangjeb, the manufacturer of finer Jamdani was a rare product and a royal monopoly. Trading accounts reveal how the Jamdani travelled to the courts of the Mughals in the 15th – 16th century period. For the Mughals it was fashioned into elaborate angarkhas (upper garment/shirt) worn by both men and women; it also travelled from Dhaka through Agra, to Bukhara, Samarkand and other parts of West Asia. After the “Mughals” Jamdanis were continued to develop under the patronage of ‘Nawabs’ Wajid Ali Shah of Tanda and Nawabs of Dacca (presently under Bangladesh).

The base fabric for Jamdani is unbleached cotton yarn and the design is woven using bleached cotton yarns so that a light-and-dark effect is created. Alexander the Great in 327 B.C mentions “beautiful printed cottons” in India. It is believed that the erstwhile Roman emperors paid fabulous sums for the prized Indian cotton.

TYPES OF JAMDANI SAREE

The Jamdani is basically an inlay technique on lightweight cotton fabrics. Different types of Jamdani include: –

  • Daccai Jamdani –originally a Bangladeshi style of cotton weaving is now practiced in West Bengal also.The Daccai Jamdani sarees displays floral motifs and linear multicolored designs spread over the entire body of the saree.
  • Shantipur Jamdani –belongs to the Shantipur region of Nadia District in West Bengal, the Shantipur Jamdani sarees have excellent fine-grained texture. The softness of the fabrics is highly appreciated.
  • Tangail Jamdani –originated in the Tangail region, the Tangail Jamdani sarees have traditional borders with lamp or Pradeep, lotus or Padma and fish scales or Aansh paar patterns. The warm colored sarees give emphasis on the Anchals or the part of the saree, which goes over the shoulder.
  • Dhonekhali Jamdani –this exceptional style has its origin in Dhonekhali in West Bengal. The whitish opaque surface of the Dhonekhali Jamdani saree is adorned with borders of contrasting colors in black, purple, red or any other dark colors. The Dhonekhali Jamdani sarees are hardier and have a longer life than the other variations.

DESIGN

The method of weaving resembles tapestry work in which small shuttles of coloured, gold or silver threads, are passed through the weft. The jamdani dexterously combines intricate surface designs with delicate floral sprays. When the surface is covered with superb diagonally striped floral sprays, the sari is called terchha. The anchal (the portion that goes over and beyond the shoulder) is often decorated with dangling, tassel like corner motifs, known as jhalar.

The most coveted design is known as the panna hazaar (literally: a thousand emeralds) in which the floral pattern is highlighted with flowers interlaced like jewels by means of gold and silver thread. The kalka (paisley), whose origin may be traced to the painted manuscripts of the Mughal period, has emerged as a highly popular pattern. Yet another popular pattern in jamdani is the phulwar, usually worked on pure black, blue black, grey or off-white background colours.

COLOUR

The traditional nilambari, dyed with indigo, or designs such as toradar (literally: a bunch or bouquet) preserved in weaving families over generations are now being reproduced. Other jamdani patterns are known as phulwar, usually worked on pure black, blue black, grey or off-white background colours.

PROCESS

Jamdani weaving is labour intensive, requiring a delicate touch. For traditional jamdani weaving, a very elementary pit loom is used and the work is carried on by the weaver and his apprentice. The latter works under instruction for each pick, weaving his needle made from, buffalo horn or tamarind wood to embroider the floral sequence. With a remarkable deftness, the weft yarn is woven into the warp in the background colour from one weaver to the other.

The butis (motifs) across the warp, the paar (border) and anchal (the portion that goes over and beyond the shoulder) are woven by using separate bobbins of yarn for each colour. The fine bobbins are made from tamarind wood or bamboo. After completion the cloth is washed and starched.

CHARACTERISTICS

The main pecuiliarity of Jamdani work is the geometric design. The expert weavers do not need to draw the design on paper, but instead work from memory. Jamdanis have different names according to their design (for instance, panna hajar, dubli lala, butidar, tersa, jalar, duria, charkona & many others). Present-day Jamdani saris have on their ground designs of rose, Jasmine, lotus, bunches of bananans, bunches of ginger and sago. A Jamdani with small flowers diapered on the fabric is known as Butidar. If these flowers are arranged in reclined position it is called tersa jamdani. It is not necessary that these designs are made of flowers only. There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers. If such designs cover the entire field of the sari it is called jalar naksha. If the field is covered with rows of flowers it is known as fulwar jamdani. Duria Jamdani has designs of spots all over. Belwari jamdani with colorful golden borders used to be made during the Mughal period, especially for the women of the inner court.

 

Egyptian Wedding

Egyptian culture is alive with vibrance and taste far surpassed from many other cultures. They have many ancient traditions and their ancient religion has not been lost on the elaborate planning dedicated to any wedding party. Beautiful sculpture, ancient stories of magic, and amazing designs accompany and  traditional Egyptian wedding. The ancient Egyptians were actually the first people who stated marriage laws in the world! They regarded marriage as a civil, and legal relationship. Marriage in ancient Egypt was considered a religious imposition as well as a romantic endeavour. The ancient Egyptian laws organized the relationship between married couples, as well as indicating all rights and duties for the couples. Many of the ancient marriage contracts have been found, and they were registered and signed by three officers, as was the law in long-ago times.

The wife in a traditional Egyptian household was respected greatly, and she had high prestige. Also, the couple had a lot of chances to get to know each other before the engagement; for example, in the temples or at the common feasts. There was a custom in the Egyptian family which allowed the adult daughter to welcome the guests who came to visit her parents. The ancient Egyptians  knew of the engagement before getting married, and its customs were similar to the engagement customs known recently in Egypt. The bride, or fiancee wore the engagement dress which was simpler than the wedding dress. Its color was blue or pink. The groom would put on the finger of his fiancee a ring; the ancient Egyptians believed it was a gift to the old world as well as the new,which was a symbol of immortality. In addition, the groom gave his fiancee the valuable jewelry gift they and their families had agreed on before. During the party, the attendants ate and drank many traditional Egyptian wedding foods. When the house of the new family became ready, the two families arranged the appropriate people for the wedding party. The night before wedding day, the relatives, the friends and the neighbors got together to celebrate “the Henna Night”. The women went to the bride’s house, while the men went to the groom’s house.

At the bride’s house the women danced and sang all night while the bride wore a pink dress made with silk or cotton fibers, and her hands and feet were bleached with henna. Meanwhile, the men danced and sang all night at the groom’s house, and the groom  wear an expensive clean suit. The next day, the marriage contract was signed and registered by priest in the temple in the attendance of the couple and most of their families and friends. Following this, the traditional Egyptian wedding ensured that happiness was present on both sides.

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MAHESHWARI SAREE

MAHESHWARI SAREE

An important political and cultural centre situated in Madhya Pradesh, Maheshwar is famous for a particulartype of saree called Maheshwari saree, which is a speciality of this city. These sarees are famous throughout India for their unique style of harmonious balance between the border and the body of the saree. The grace and elegance of these sarees is hard to match. The Maheshwari sari is made of either pure cotton – ie, cotton wefts on cotton warps, or is mixed – ie fine silk warps and cotton weft. They are characterized by a narrow coloured border embellished with gold (zari) and small checks, narrow stripes, or solid colour in the body. 

HISTORY OF MAHESHWARI SAREE

The origin of the Maheshwari sarees dates back to the 18th century, when the state of Indore in Madhya Pradesh was ruled by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar.According to legends, Queen Ahilyabai ordered craftsmen from Surat and Malwa to design special 9-yard sarees to be gifted to royal guests and relatives. The sarees that were produced by these craftsmen became popular as Maheshwari sarees. It is believed that Queen Ahilyabai herself created the design of the first saree. These sarees were originally worn by the ladies of royal status, but nowadays, they are available in both national and international markets.

FABRIC USED

The Maheshwari saree is woven mostly in cotton and silk. The saree woven from pure silk, is famous for its strength, elasticity and a unique luster of the fabric. Nowadays these sarees are made in natural and artificial silk as well.

COLOURS AND DESIGNS

The typical Maheshwari saree is either chequered, plain or has stripes, combined with complementary colours. These sarees have a trademark border and pallu, setting them apart from the Paithani, Patola, Kancheepuram and the rest. Originally, the pallu is particularly distinctive with 5 strips, 3 coloured and two white alternating, running along its width. The reversible border of the saree known as bugdi which can be worn either side, is a speciality. It has a variety of leaves and flowers on the border, in karnphool pattern, which is quite popular. But now a lot of experimentation with respect to the fabric and motifs has been done in Maheshwari sarees, no doubt to increase its appeal in a market of changing and varied tastes. The use of zari and kinari is also unique to the Maheshwari saree. The golden thread is used to weave exotic motifs and designs on the body, border and pallu of the saree.

CHARACTERISTIC

The Maheshwari fabric is known for its lightness, elasticity and fine thread count. In sharp contrast to the rich and heavy silken weaves of Kanjivaram, the silk and cotton mix of Maheshwaris is perfect to wear in the summer.Originally, Maheshwari saris were woven in earthy shades like maroon, red, green, purple and black. Weavers used only natural dyes for the yarn. Today, Maheshwari fabrics are woven in many jewel tones which are derived from chemicals rather than from flowers, roots and leaves. Popular colours today include shades of blue, mauve, pink, yellow and orange, mixed with gold or silver thread. Subtle colours and textures are created by using different shades in the warp and weft. Gold thread or zari is also used in Maheshwari saris to weave elegant motifs on the body, border and pallu (the width of the sari that is draped over the shoulder) of the sari.The one trait of Maheshwari fabrics that has stood the test of time is its motifs. Even today, they are mostly geometric. The most common ones include chatai (woven mat pattern), Iinth (brick pattern), hira (diamond pattern) and chameli ki phool (the chameli flower) – all of which may be traced back to the detailing on the walls, niches and cornices of Maheshwar Fort.The borders of Maheshwari saris are reversible, and are embellished with intricate designs. Its pallu is also quite distinctive. It commonly has five stripes, three coloured alternating with two white, in the Maharastrian style. Nowadays, Maheshwari fabrics are available in many other designs as well.

VARIETIES

These sarees usually have a plain body or have stripes or checks of different varieties. Some of these varieties are highly popular and are known by different names. The ‘Chandrakala’ and the ‘Baingani Chandrakala’ are examples of plain Maheshwari sarees, while the ‘Chandratara’, the ‘Beli’ and the ‘Parbi’ are examples of striped and checked ones.

PROCESS OF MAHESHWARI WEAVING

The Maheshwari weaving process has the following steps:

Designing

Maheshwari handlooms use a lot of traditional sari designs, many of which have been prevalent in the areas since historical times. Many such designs are being used in their original form and many others with minor modifications in them. Interestingly, for the borders of the saris, the designs engraved on the walls of the Maheshwar fort are used. Based on the design of the border, there are the following types of Maheshwari saris: Maheshwar bugdi kinar, zari patti, rui phool kinar, phool kinar, chatai kinar, Vkinar, kahar kinar, bajuband kinar, etc.4 Sometimes the designs are inspired from saris from other parts of the country. The design may depend on the order placed, which comes with the demand for a specific design.

Raw Material Procurement

Raw materials for the process (cotton, silk and zari) are procured from Bangalore, Coimbatore and Surat. They and are further processed to make suitable to work upon. These processes are discussed in detail in the following sections.

 Dyeing

Dyeing is an important part of the whole process. Both cotton and silk require dyeing before they can be used on the loom. The process is normally carried out by the weavers themselves or specialized dyeing technicians who charge for their services depending on the material and the kind of dyeing required. There are different kinds of dyes for coloring silk and cotton. For coloring cotton thread, three types of dyes are used—napthol, wet dye and procion dye. In case of cotton, dyeing is done not with a single dye but with a combination. For coloring silk, special dyes called Sando Silk are used, which are readymade dyes and do not need to be mixed with others. The process of dyeing starts by dipping the raw threads in TR Solution (a combination of Turkish oil and bleaching powder) for at least four hours for bleaching.. This is followed by the actual process of dyeing. First, dyes are mixed in warm water in big metal tubs to obtain the desired colors. The threads are dipped in the tubs for a while and then dipped in the tank containing napthol to provide stability to the color. They are then washed in other tanks containing plain water and then put in tubs containing solutions of detergent and soda in warm water. Thereafter, the threads are washed again and are hung on bamboo poles for drying. Once the threads are dry, they are sent back to the weavers for further processing.

Yarn Opening for Weft and Warp

After dyeing, the yarn is normally received by the weavers in the form of bundles. Both in the case of weft and the warp, the thread needs to be freed from tangles and stretched in order to make them tighter. They are then are taken through a process of reeling by using a charkha, thus converting the bundles into small rolls. In case of warp, a big motorized charkha is used; in case of weft, a small, hand‐driven charkha is used, which makes bobbins.

Warping

The master weaver carries out the process of making the warp. Since the silk fiber used is very delicate, the warp machine for the process is radically different from the one used in case of cotton thread. The silk warp machine comprises an octagonal metal cylindrical frame that revolves vertically on the machine axis and a metallic rack on which the thread rolls are kept. The fibers from these rolls pass through hooks fixed on the rack on to a double metallic frame that moves up and down with the motion of the machine, and are wound on the cylinder in a criss‐cross manner that facilitates the detection of breach in the fiber, if one exists any where. This process starts from one end of the cylinder and goes on till the whole of the cylinder is covered with the thread. Using this machine, the master weaver converts the raw silk into single or double fiber warp, depending on the requirement of the loom. Once this has been achieved, the taana threads in the shape of bundles are taken to the loom where they are used as warp.

Weaving

For weaving, one end of the warp is bound on main beam of the loom. The other end (in the form of a bundle) is taken under another horizontal beam parallel to the main beam and then across the overhead beam. Weights are hung on it on the other end of the beam to keep it tight, giving the warp a Z‐shape. There are up to 4,000 strings in a single warp. The length of warp is 50 meters and the width of weft is 48 inches. As the warp proceeds, the bundle needs to be opened up. The movement of the string that controls the shuttle (in which the roll of weft thread is kept) takes the yarn of the weft across the threads of the warp. With the motion of the pedal, the heavy frame sets the yarn of the weft along the thread of the warp. The weaver uses the zari threads and other colored threads across the warp depending on the desired design. The motion of the loom provides movement to the overhead jaquard‐like punch card mechanism called dobby (although smaller than the jaquard looms, these have a similar function of putting forward paticular hooks that are required for a particular border design) and helps in designing of the border of the sari. The process of weaving is very difficult and tedious in case of saris that have more design work. Therefore, the resulting products are also proportionately expensive.

Finishing

Once a sari is completed, it is taken off from the loom and sent for cutting. The normal length of such a sari is about 11 feet. It is then folded properly and packed. No ironing or further printing is required. Once packed, they are ready to be marketed.

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CHANDERI SAREES

CHANDERI SAREE
Chanderi is a small town in the newly formed Ashoknagar district of Madhya Pradesh. It is around 230 kilometers from Bhopal, the capital of the state. Chanderi is a town of looms. Chanderi is famous for its hand-woven Chanderi sarees. It is a renowned centre for traditional weavers of saree. The Chanderi sarees have sophistication hard to match. Chanderi sarees are very light and ideal for Indian summers. Its beauty lies in its simplicity, airy feel, narrow borders and decently designed anchals with buttis.
HISTORY OF CHANDERI SAREE
Ancient texts speak of Madhya Pradesh as a famous center for weaving between the 7th century and the 2nd century BC. You can find its reference in the Epic Mahabharata. Famous Persian scholar Albaruni referred this town while making a reference to a period around 1030AD in his book “Albaruni’s India”. Mughals, Rajputs and Maratha dynasties ruled this region from time to time. Kings and Kingdoms, Badshahs and Sultans, battles won and lost, Queens who performed Johar, Palaces, Forts, Doors and what not, which gave name and fame to Chanderi, now remain only part of stories and fables; but what survived throughout, from 12th and 13th centuries AD till today, is the magic of the weave of Chanderi which is known to rich and middle classes of India as ‘Chanderi Saris’. Proven record of tradition of cloth weaving is available from 13th century. In the beginning, weavers were mostly Muslims. In 1350, Koshti weavers from Jhansi migrated to Chanderi and settled down here. During Mughal period cloth business of Chanderi reached to its peak. The cloth length of Chandri was sent to Mughal Badshah Akbar folded and packed in a hollow of a bamboo, when it was taken out, a whole Elephant could have been covered by its length. This was the delicacy and sophistication of weaving of those days.
During the reign of Jahangir, this art of weaving still used to mesmerize people. But this is also true that this excellence of weaving which peaked during Mughal period, also deteriorated during this very period. Jain community has been living in Chanderi for a very long time. There are many Jain temples and pilgrimages in Chanderi. It is said that in Gajrath Samaharos, held between1436 to 1468, turbans made only from Chanderi cloth were worn.

Chroniclers of history of Chanderi have mentioned the uniqueness of Chanderi fabrics. Tieffenthaler, a Jesuit priest who stayed in nearby Marwar from 1740 to 1761, mentioned in his description De L’Inde in 1776 that “very fine cloth is woven here and exported abroad.” One by-product of this was the growth of new weaving centers; Chanderi rose to prominence as a cloth producer on the back of the raw cotton boom. Weavers produced very fine quality turbans for export to Maratha rulers among whom the cocked ‘turban’ was becoming a distinguishing mark of high nobility.

Much earlier one finds mention of Chanderi in Maasir-i-Alamgir (1658-1707) wherein it is stated that Aurangzeb ordered that “in the Khilat Khana embroider cloth should be used instead of stuff with gold and silver worked on it.” The material was very expensive, a pair of sari costing eight hundred to one thousand rupees and sometimes even more. “The beauty of fabric consists in its fineness, softness and transparency, but the ends were often worked and fringed heavily with gold thread.”
A British R.C. Sterndal described Chanderi cloth as, “Chanderi is a place where thin Malmal cloth is woven. The cloth woven in Chanderi is the favorable choice of Queens in India. This cloth is very expensive, which have works of Golden thread on its borders. The cloth of Chanderi can be identified by its thin, soft and transparent texture, which can only be experienced.”
Chanderi produced a range of saris appropriate to the tastes of its clients, the royalty and nobility of Gwalior, Baroda, Nagpur and beyond. Rarely could a trader get past the discerning eye of an elder in these select households. The Maharani of Baroda would immediately put aside the 200s count cotton by just a ‘rub on the cheek’ and could decipher the finer nuances of the motif work and pay accordingly. Gwalior state patronized Chanderi weavers from time to time.
Traditionally, Chanderi cloth was woven using hand spun cotton thread. Threads were always brought here from outside. Due to its proximity to trade routes, supply of threads was never interrupted; but in 19th century local weavers started using mill spun thread. Then Silk thread was preferred because the mill spun cotton thread could not produce the required shine which was the specialty of Chanderi cloth. This was the time when ‘woven air’, which was the name to describe exclusiveness of Chanderi cloth had started losing its meaning.
TYPES OF CHANDERI SAREES
• Narrow border:These are the plain sarees having a very narrow border of complementary-warp zari and an endpiece containing a few narrow zari bands, or one single, wider band.
• Broader border:These are the sarees with broader borders woven in supplementary warp zari with coloured supplementary-warp silk embellishments, woven into small repeat floral or geometrical designs. The endpiece consisted of the border elements repeated twice as two parallel bands, often with narrow woven lines and many buti woven between them.
• Wide border:The third type called do-chashmee (two streams) is no longer made but had wide borders with brightly coloured supplementary- warp silk in a satin weave upon which were supplementary bands of white geometric patterns. In some sarees the borders were reversible.
CHARACTERISTIC
Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that sets them apart from textiles produced en masse in factories. Traditionally, the fabric was woven using very fine hand spun yarn, which accounted for its delicate texture.
Soft pastel shades characterize most Chanderi saris. Unlike the more flamboyant Kanjivaram saris of South India, or the Paithani saris of the West, most Chanderi saris display a remarkably subtle balance between the colours used on the body, and those on the borders. However, timeless combinations of bright colour borders on an off white base, or red on black, also exist. Interestingly, colour was introduced to Chanderi saris only fifty years ago. Until then, all Chanderi saris were woven in the natural white of cotton, and were then washed in saffron to give them their characteristic golden hue and fragrance. Some weavers also used natural dyes made from flowers, but usually on the woven product, not yarn. Today, Chanderi weavers prefer fast-acting chemical dyes.
Traditionally, the quality of the gold thread used distinguished Chanderi saris from cheaper imitations. Most Chanderis have a rich gold border and two lines of gold on the pallu. Some have gold checks or little motifs (known as Butis) all over.
Two unique methods are used to embellish Chanderi weaves – Minakari (inlay in the motifs) and Addedar Patela (jeweled cutwork).
Unlike the geometrical motifs of Maheshwari weaves, Chanderi motifs are usually drawn from the earth and sky. Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi), trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies, all found their way into the idiom of motifs in Chanderi.
PROCESS OF CHANDERI WEAVING
The process of Chanderi weaving has the following steps:
Designing
Two types of designing are done in the case of Chanderi weaving. One is the main design for the sari itself that contains various aspects like the border, the kind of motifs to be used, color combinations, etc. This is usually provided by the ordering party. This procedure is informal in the case of the local dealer but in the case of the big trading houses, a laminated paper with the design, the threads to be used and the location of motifs, etc., are provided to the weaver as a sample. The other is the more exquisite motif or booty designing which is done by the master weaver on a graph paper. This is provided to the weaver depending on the terms of the order.
Dyeing
Dyeing is an important part of the whole process, as both cotton and silk require dyeing before they can be used on the loom. The process of dyeing is normally carried out by specialized technicians who work for the dealer and are paid by him. There are different kinds of dyes for coloring silk and cotton. For cotton, a readymade fast color dye is used while for silk special dyes called Sando Silk are used which are also readymade dyes.
The process of dyeing starts with dissolving the readymade fast color dye in warm water. The threads are dipped into this solution and left for a while before being taken out. Depending on the quality of the dye, they are dipped into the solution again for some time. After this they are washed in with plain water and then soaked in a solution of warm water, detergent and soda. Finally, the threads are washed once more and hung on bamboo poles to dry. Once they are dry, they are sent back to the weavers for further processing.
Yarn Opening for Weft
After dyeing the yarn is normally received by the weavers in the form of bundles. Both in the case of the weft and the warp, the thread needs to be disentangled andstretched in order to make it tighter. It is taken through a process of reeling by using a charkha and thus the bundles of thread are converted into small rolls called bobbins.
Warping
Chanderi artisans use the older system of preparing the warp roll. Upon receiving the roll of silk thread from the agent, they open and stretch it. Three to four people are normally required for this process. The threads are adjusted on two iron hooks plugged into the ground. Since silk threads are very delicate and there are always chances of them getting entangled with each other in this process, therefore, they are made to pass through two parallel, thin bamboo sticks which are almost as long as the warp roll itself. The ends of the threads are tied to the warp roll at the desired interval that the weaver wants to keep between the two threads of the warp. This is normally three to four inches. Thus the threads are distributed evenly on the taana roll log. After this, the bundle is stretched to about 15 to 20 feet and after every six to seven feet the threads are tied to the bamboo sticks through which they are passing, so that they don’t get entangled. Using a rod passing through the taana roll log, the log is rolled to wind the threads on it. The threads are wound on the roll till they reach the bamboo sticks. After this, they are untied from the bamboo sticks and the bamboo sticks are again tied at a distance of six to seven feet from the taana log. The whole process is repeated till the log is finished.
Weaving
The process of weaving starts by placing the warp roll at the extreme end of the loom from the position of the weaver. The threads are then attached to the threads coming out from the rucch (left over from the previous weaving work). The length of the warp is 50 meters and the width of the weft is 48 inches. After this, the weaver gets involved in three different actions simultaneously. With her right hand she operates the string that provides motion to the shuttle carrying the bobbin of the weft across the threads of the warp. With her left hand, she provides an up and down motion to the heavy wooden frame of the loom that falls on the threads of the warp and weft to provide them with their respective places in the cloth. With both her legs she provides the motion to the rucch which helps the threads of the warp to interlock, taking the weft threads with them. Thus, the process of weaving proceeds with the threads of the warp being interlocked with the weft threads that are being carried across the warp threads through a flying shuttle that is controlled with the movement of the strings in the right hand. The process of weaving is difficult and time‐consuming in the case of heavily designed saris which, as a result, are expensive.
Finishing
After the weaving is completed, the fabric is taken off the loom and sent for cutting. The normal length of a sari is about 5‐5.5 yards. It is then folded properly and packed and ready to be marketed. At this stage no ironing or further printing is required.

Wedge Heel

Wedge Heel

What  is a Wedge Heel?

On most shoes, the “heel” sits under only the heel of the foot, but a wedge heel runs under the foot, from the back of the shoe to the middle or front.As you’ve probably guessed, it has a wedge shape, but not all wedges are high heels. In fact, wedge heels range from low to high, it’s the shape and the length of the heel that classify it as a wedge.

Advantages of Wedge Heels:

These shoes add height, but are easier to walk .

Worldly and eye-catching, wedges have a very cosmopolitan look about them.

A wedge heel looks great with nearly any length skirt or dress.

Wedge heels, by nature, are a fashionable choice; by just choosing to wear them, you up your fashion quotient.

Wedges will add definition and shape to heavy ankles, making them appear thinner.